Are there any special techniques for setting stones in a sterling silver ring?

Basically, you place your stones (cut with the right shapes) in. In larger configurations, the cone is inverted and a file with a knife edge is used to extract the material in a staggered position with respect to the location of the tips, as shown in 12.12b. The frame settings are especially good for translucent and transparent gemstones, since light can enter through the back, but of course they can also be used for opaque stones. If you discover that you have a shallow cabochon, you can lift it up a bit with a wire loop at the base of the bezel.

You can also use a little glue on the base if you want to ensure an even more secure fit. Snaptite bezels are for faceted stones and are available in various shapes and sizes, both for pendants and earrings, as well as for loose bezels that you can weld into your own designs or thread into a cord. In the case of frames with parallel walls, an inner bearing is cut or added to support the stone; in the case of conical bezels, the decreasing size of the shape supports the stone from behind. Link gallery settings are a great way to create interesting and original designs.

Why don't you try placing a briolette wrapped in wire on the bottom of the bezel to make a longer pendant or pendant earrings, or join several bezels with rings to create a chain? The main purpose of the bearing in this case is to level the stone and keep it in position while the stone is being placed. The silver sheet is used as a base plate for the back of any setting, since it adds structure, secures the stone and adds an additional finish to the design. This important adjustment, shown in Figure 12,12, is a basic element in the jewelry industry and clearly shows how bezels are similar to tips. Obviously, the most effective thing is to do it without damaging the configuration in order to be able to use it again, but it often happens that a part old enough to be repaired is also worn out enough that it needs to be changed.

You'll only need one pair of round-nose pliers to do this; simply place the stone in the center of the bezel and, with the pliers, gently squeeze the small loop at the end of the bezel, which will cause the bezel to hold firmly to the stone in place. For rectilinear stones, use spacers to separate the different planes of the perimeter of the stone, add a little to account for the thickness, and then use pliers to make sharp corners. Glued bezels are another fit that can be used with cabochons, since cabochons have a flat back, making them more suitable for this type of bezels.

Mitchell Groesser
Mitchell Groesser

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